Persimmon crostata

The persimmon is to winter what the peach is to summer. The bright orange “kaki” keeps company to the faithful apple in fruit bowl arrangements throughout the northern regions of Italy. Peeled and cut into wedges after many a lunch and dinner, they are symbolic of the Christmas season and the misty months that follow.

In this comfort inspired recipe, persimmons are stewed in freshly squeezed orange juice and subsequently wrapped in a crumbly pastry for a crostata tart. As the tart bakes the aroma of nutmeg, vanilla and star anise fill the kitchen like a warm pudding.

Continue reading

Golden chanterelle and portobello salad

Early autumn slips quietly past late summer, announcing itself by the appearance of baskets of chanterelle mushrooms arranged on marketplace tables. The chanterelle is decidedly my favorite mushroom, not only for its golden color, but for its graceful shape and velvet texture. Its bright citrus-like flavor blends well with the earthy portobello in an almost effortless salad.

Continue reading

Figs caramelized with orange

Caramelized Figs

The plump, dark purple figs of late, late September prove that dessert has neither to be complicated nor particularly sweet. As inevitable autumn settles in with its daily morning mist — the last ripe figs lay neatly arranged in fruit crates at vegetable stalls for the taking.  Take them home by the armful if you stumble upon them at your local market.

Continue reading

Peperonata with pan-grilled cherry tomatoes

PeppersAs a child living in the idyllic village of Caldogno, I had no idea how much work it was to fill the cupboard with jars of peperonata.. In the last part of September my mother would take a trip to the local market to buy the best sweet peppers the late summer had to offer. Coming home from school, I would enter the kitchen, only to find it absolutely filled with wooden crates of yellow and red peppers The countertops were covered with glass jars, while cast-iron skillets of sliced yellow and red peppers simmered in olive oil and garlic. A day or so later the crates were emptied and the glass jars were filled with colorful stewed peppers. My mother intended the efforts of her labor to keep for a while. But her jars of peperonata simply didn’t last that long. Everyone in my family loved them.

Continue reading

Garlic infused honey

 

Garlic braided from LautrecWhere sweet and pungent go together, honey and garlic make for an interesting contrast of flavors. Raw garlic cloves caramelize when infused with honey. The process of blending the ingredients is a short one, while the results improve with time. Garlic infused honey is one of my cupboard essentials, discovered while experimenting in the kitchen. I like to keep a jar of it in the pantry, available for immediate use drizzled over baked cheeses,  fresh figs, or on grilled red capsicum peppers.

Honey and garlic can be prepared with raw and roasted garlic. Raw garlic makes for an intense honey. Roasted garlic is decidedly sweeter, and the honey is more subtle as a result. In both cases use the freshest garlic possible, with cloves as smooth and shiny as ivory.

Continue reading

Summer vegetable salad with bulgur

Bulgur is made of whole wheat. It is first cooked, subsequently dried and then ground into grains of various shapes and sizes. Of all the types of bulgur available, I prefer coarse bulgur when making a summer salad. Bulgur is to be found in Turkish and Moroccan shops and market places. Bulgur is also a part of the regional kitchens of southern Italy and on the island of Sicily. Make the following salad with bulgur a few hours in advance so that all of the juices in the vegetables and their dressing can soak into the grains.

Continue reading

Lavender and pink pepper salt

After seeing the fields of lavender in bloom in the Provence in early summer, I started looking for reasons to use lavender in the kitchen. Creativity in cooking is often sparked by color. I believe that color has a powerful influence on taste. A jar of pink pepper corns in the cupboard inspired me to mix pink with purple in a bowl. I added fresh green leaves of rosemary to the brightly aromatic ingredients and put the bowl on a wooden tray as decoration.

ThreeBowls

I soon started to experiment with a new color composition. With the lavender fields of France in mind, I sprinkled some purple olives with the herbal mixture and left them to marinate in olive oil. I continued my taste and color studies with my beautiful bowl of herbs.

Continue reading

Melon and marinated shallots

In the refined region of Reggio Emilia, the appearance of the orange-fleshed cantaloupe is a sure sign of summer. Slices of sweet  fragrant melon combined with salty prosciutto crudo are served in the local trattorie surrounding the hills of Parma.

The perfume of ripe cantaloupe goes hand in hand with crisp white table cloths draped over long tables situated in the shade of ancient buildings. The gentle clatter of silverware against plates intermingle with the echo of conversations forming the background to open air summer lunch.

The classic antipasto ‘prosciutto e melone’ was the impulse for the creation of a salad composed of bright melon, crunchy marinated shallots, crushed pink peppers, threads of fresh chives and ruby-red juicy raspberries. My recipe juxtaposes sweet and sour with aromatic herb and spice.

Continue reading

Saffron infused white wine vinegar

Saffron infused white wine vinegar
Saffron is a spice reminiscent of the ages. It is exotic and mysterious, a mixture of Asia and the Mediterranean, like Piazza San Marco and the Ponte Rialto of Venice.

The Venetian kitchen is interlaced with spices. Local vegetables and fish are marinated with ‘agro-dolce’ baths of warm vinegar, and allowed to mingle before being served on platters arranged on the time-worn wooden cupboards of ‘osterie’ tucked away in the narrow alleyways surrounding the fish market of this floating city.

The use of sweet and sour marinades is an inspiring kitchen technique, giving depth of flavor and color to the most basic of ingredients. The mineral-gold aroma of saffron is enhanced by white wine vinegar. Saffron infused vinegar is one of my favorite cupboard essentials.

Continue reading