Merluzzo al forno con soffritto e pangrattato

Fish and Lemon

Fresh fish is most readily available on the weekend, which coincides with the most welcome moment to relax while cooking. A lazy Sunday is just the right time to chop and mix herbs, onions and garlic, in anticipation of oven-baked white fish served in the late afternoon. In the following recipe I utilize the Norwegian cod fish called skrei, in season January through April.  Skrei may be replaced with sea bass or any other commonly available fresh white fish. Merluzzo can be found at the fish markets of Italy.

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Orange infused honey


I cannot recall the first time I stirred the zest of an orange into a few spoons of honey. Perhaps it was in the period that I was experimenting with the elements of Sicilian pastries. Unable to find candied orange peel to mix through the ricotta and apricot filling for a tart, I put some orange zest into a jar of honey, imagining it to be a compromise. It turned out to be the contrary. The orange zest altered the color of the honey to a deep sienna almost immediately, infusing it with its vivid color. The sweet oils of the orange mingled through the honey, changing a primarily sweet flavor into a perfumed syrup. A few hours later the zest had changed consistency, turning into a clutter of threads. When left on the cupboard shelf, I discovered that the orange in the honey had caramelized completely. This made the simple combination of two ingredients even more fascinating in my mind. It meant that the orange zest could be used separately from the honey itself. Drizzled together over a bowl of raspberries or shavings of a crisp apple, orange-infused honey makes dessert appear to be a great effort, while it simply isn’t. A cupboard essential it is.

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Raw fennel and blood orange salad

 

I cannot remember the first time I ate a salad made with raw sliced fennel mixed with beautifully dramatic blood oranges.  Surely it was while having lunch at our neighbor’s house just outside of Pozzuoli,  close to the baroque city of Naples.

At first glance this combination this may seem to be a strange mixture of flavors.  Yet crunchy and savory fennel tossed, with sweetly-juicy orange wedges, is the perfect example of light, bright and fresh. In other words, the making of this salad makes the moodiness of winter weather in the midst of spring promises somehow disappear.  Continue reading

Red onion broth


One of the most interesting aspects of the Italian kitchen is its inventiveness. This recipe is based upon that very principle because it is made with the scraps of vegetables used for making a wintry tomato sauce or as a base for a root vegetable soup. Rather than get rid of the skins of the onions and the ends of the carrots, I cooked them with the tiniest bit of sea salt. The vegetable broth that came from this experiment is full of flavor and purely Italian in its creative simplicity. Enjoy this wonderfully deep-orange broth with pasta or rice. The necessity for broth cubes suddenly disappears when vegetable scraps are put to use!

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Olio Nuovo

Oil

The ripened olives of Italy are gathered from their branches in the late fall. The olive harvest is pressed into oil in mid to late November, depending upon the place of origin. The first press of olive oil is celebrated throughout the country. New oil, or ‘olio nuovo’ is remarkable, dark green and rich in flavor and texture. There are no recipes required for its use, just the adequate matching of ingredients.

As the winter skies are grey and our surroundings are half asleep, pour some fresh, grassy olive oil on a plate and dream of summer.

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A winter mash of rutabaga and potato


A simple supper can be created with two uncomplicated winter roots, the potato and rutabaga. As a child I found the aroma of rutabaga quite intense. All of my mother’s friends agreed however that her mash of the two vegetables was truly wonderful. Everyone took second helpings  at dinner parties. This recipe is a family classic and has always been a part of our holiday and wintery meals. I suggest adding it to your collection of comfort foods.

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Sweet and savory apple-mushroom stuffing

 

Thanksgiving apples and mushroomsCranberries, apples, sage and thyme are the symbolic elements of winter holidays at home. Christmas brings back visions of favorite family moments, of avid conversation against a backdrop of lively kitchen noise made by a stove filled with pots and pans. My absolute favorite at the Thanksgiving table was my Mom’s stuffing made with mushrooms and apples. As a child I ate spoons of it at dinner, covered with ladles of warm gravy. Next to stuffing, I loved the bright tanginess of cranberry relish made with oranges. The following recipe works perfectly for filling poultry.  It also stands beautifully on its own as a deep dish casserole or as the filling for a squash or pumpkin. It is yet another of countless examples of my mother’s intuitive talent in cooking that I proudly carry on in my everyday tasks in life.  Continue reading

Cranberry relish

 

 

Cranberries and a silver spoonCranberry relish did not come out of a jar at my Mom’s house. My mother made everything from scratch, giving her homemade specialties to her friends and neighbors. I cannot find all of my mother’s recipes in the recipe card box she made for me. When in doubt, I use my memory as a backdrop and my experience as a cook to reconstruct my absolute favorites. As I stand and stir in the pan with a wooden spoon, I can just hear my Mom’s voice explaining how she makes her homemade relish.

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Caldogno at Christmas in 1964


At the age of three I moved with my parents and my brother to Italy. I remember the trip vividly, though in bits and pieces from a child’s point of view. Our family stayed in a hotel in the middle of the city of Vicenza while my parents looked for a place to live. This in itself was a great adventure. Ultimately my parents found a place to live to the town of Caldogno, to the north of Vicenza, along the provincial road to Dueville, in the direction of the mountainous region of Asiago.

We moved into the ground floor of a two-story , white house paved with marble. Angela, our neighbor from upstairs, had a balcony and hung over it often to talk at length with my Mom. Luigi lived nextdoor. He was our “landlord” my mother explained. This sounded quite mysterious to me at the age of three. Luigi had thick dark glasses, wore a navy blue beret and had a leather satchel across his shoulder. He drove about on a scooter. He took care of our garden.

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Biscotti al limone e mandorla

almond-cantuccini

The biscotto is a cookie most often associated with the crisp almond cantuccini of Tuscany. Traditionally soaked in the sweet white Vin Santo wine  of the region and served as the simplest of desserts in ancient cities like Florence and Siena — these sweet almond morsels are almost invariably served next to a cup of espresso in most Italian-inspired caffe’s throughout the world.

As a cook of all things savory, I feared the world of baked goods and pastries for a long time — thinking my efforts would inevitably end in disaster since the essence of baking required following the rules —  and I am simply not a “follow-the-rules” type of person.  I tend to innovate and experiment along the cooking path more than I follow instructions. I was pleasantly surprised by the possibilities that baking biscotti and cantuccini offered in the world of sweets. . . . Written below are the details to my discoveries.

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